As I think I’ve said before, it’s so weird to think that a day where we walk “only” 12 miles is a short or easy day. But it was definitely a nice change after two consecutive days of 18+ miles each day. Of course, today may have been short but it wasn't exactly easy since the heat wave continues, we’re still on the meseta and today added a bit of humidity. Today at lunch, the news was on and it seems like we’re breaking records here in Spain.
Initially, we walked beside what I think was Spain’s version of the Erie Canal. It’s now used for irrigation in the fields, and for catching little crawfish.
In Frómista, there was a large hand. Not really sure what that was about. But my friend Dotora Gallina almost got snatched up by it!
At one point, the Camino was a little confusing. There were actually two routes: one that was a bit shorter and along the road, and another that was slightly longer but in more shade. We took the shaded route.
We passed by the Ermita de la Virgen del Rio (Chapel of the Virgin of the River.)
We may or may not have received the 40 day indulgence granted by the Bishop of Palencia in 1857.
And in the town in which we are staying (Villalcázar de Sirga) there is Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca (Church of The White Virgin?)
As I only learned later, it is not named for the Mary dressed in white (and gold)
but for another to which many miracles were attributed. So many so, that the medieval Camino changed routes to go through this town, leaving the village or Arconada off the Camino.
The church was built by the Knights Templar. They are a group that originally protected pilgrims going to the Holy Land and then those going to Santiago. You might also know them as shrouded in mystery from the movies/novels The DaVinci Code or National Treasure. Maybe some of that is true as the little brochure stated: “If you walk along Villasirga on the spring equinox day head for the Pantocrstor (Christ sitting in judgement) and hit the part on the bull which is being lit by the sun, in the mouths of the two heads on both sides of the Christ will reveal the place with the Templar hid their treasure.”
I guess I will have to return in March.
This is probably the sleepiest little town we’ve stayed in so far. Not much was open in the evening, so we went to the super market (and I use that term loosely) and grabbed some salami, cheese and bread for dinner. I felt just like a Millenial with our makeshift charcuterie board :)
Buen Camino!
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