Pilgrims Everywhere: Sarria - Portomarín - Palas de Rei

We are now in the heart of Galicia, a region of Spain. It is very rural and agricultural, as well as lush and abundant with water. It also has a bit of a unique smell - I think that’s because of all the cows and sheep, pigs, and chickens that are here. 

From Samos, we made our way to the city of Sarria.

In order to receive a compostela (official pilgrim certificate) at the Cathedral in Santiago, you must walk at least 100km (or bike 200km.)  Sarria is just over 100 km from Santiago. Therefore, the number of pilgrims really increases from this point onward. In fact, I’m quite surprised by how many pilgrims there are on the Camino now.  I think this is for two reasons. First, when I walked two years ago, we did not stay in the major cities and so we were a little “off course” from the majority of pilgrims, so we just didn’t see them. Second, there is a lot of chatter on the Camino that the number of pilgrims is just really high this year. In fact, one of the monks in Rabanal mentioned they have already seen a 20% increase in pilgrims this year, and the busy season hasn’t even begun. We are also hearing reports that pilgrims are finding it difficult to get accommodations. Thankfully, all of ours have been booked ahead. 

Just after Sarria we passed the 100km point. 

Then we arrived in Portomarín.  The city is on a reservoir. In fact, when the reservoir was created, they had to move the city to higher ground, even moving the cathedral brick by brick.

To enter the city, you have to climb a long staircase.  I’m told that the proper way to do it is without stopping. Otherwise, you will have bad luck.  I didn’t take my chances and kept going.

On the way there, we were followed by a heard of sheep!  Just watch these videos!

I’m writing this now in the town of Palas de Rei.  I’m finding that I’m not taking so many pictures anymore. Not because of the scenery, but just wanting to take it all in and we’re all getting a little tired.

Tomorrow, we have an 18 mile day. It’s going to be a long one, but I’m sure it will be a great day as well.  Say a prayer for us. Until then, Buen Camino!

Up & Down, Rain & Shine, Warm & Cold: Las Herrerias - Fonfria - Samos

As the title of this blog post suggests, we have had a whole lot of everything the past few days. Whether it has been the terrain or the weather or the type of scenery, it seems that we’ve seen it all. And while some of it has been difficult, it has guaranteed that each day is different and brings new insights for each of us to consider.

Walking out of Villafranca we were given a choice. We could take the regular, simpler route along the road or what is considered the more scene, yet more difficult, route through the mountains. We chose the scenery and were not disappointed.  However, it began with a very steep ascent and then concluded with an equally steep descent.  We ended up having rain off and on all day.

One of the very interesting things about the Camino are the people that you meet along the way.  On this day, I ended up hiking pretty much all day with a woman named Sarah from Pensacola. In the evening, I met up with some of her other friends: Mary from the northwest USA and Christian from Germany. It’s incredible how the shared experience really brings people together, and how quickly you can get to know a person and feel like you know them well.

Las Herrarias, our destination for the evening, is nestled in a valley, but there isn’t much going on in town.

I have to admit that our next day was just short of miserable. It rained most of the day. It was windy and so we were being pelted by the rain. And to top it all off it, it was quite cold. But even with all of that, the students did really well, we were still able to smile, and the cloudiness and fogginess added its own allure to the day.

Early in the morning, we came to the town of O Cebrero which is one of my favorites. We were greeted by a bagpiper.

The view from O Cebrero

We eventually made it to our destination of Fonfria: cold and wet, but with hearts full of gratitude for a warm bed and a shared pilgrims meal.

What a difference a day can make! Our next day was sunny and warm.  The ascent that we had made yesterday, then turned into a pretty steep descent at the start as we went into another valley and made our way to the town of Samos.  Here, there is a massive Benedictine monastery whose foundation began in the 6th century.  We ended our day with mass at the monastery and then dinner.  

We continue on our journey, never knowing exactly what each day will hold, but knowing that we just need to keep on the path in front of us headed towards Santiago.  For now, all we can say is….Buen Camino!